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| Here's a pic that my brother sent me of him getting barreled in Java. He said he and some guys from SD were daring each other to go DEEP. The other guys to the right of him only wanted to take off on the shoulders. He said that it was a barrel machine that day and that EVEN THE AVERAGE GUYS WERE GETTING BARRELED!!!! |
Loc: Huntington
Beach
Crew: SOLO
Time: 0730-0845
Conditions:
1-3 FT, low tide, glassy, sunny, offshore, inconsistent.
I should be at school reading or still in
bed, well rested for the day ahead of me. But no . . . I’m sitting here in the
lineup at Huntington Beach in the midst of a fifteen minute lull. Surfline said
it would be 3-4 FT+, but it’s more like . . . there ain’t shit.
Finally a wave comes. I paddle and try to
pop up, but I never get into the wave. It breaks in front of me, possibly could’ve
been the wave of the day.
Guys are leaving the water. There aren’t
that many of us. River Jetties doesn’t look too crowded. Magnolia looks like it
has some peaks, but it’s too far of a paddle; I don’t have that much time.
I go for everything in desperation. I
paddle in going left and right. The waves are long and racy today, so I pull in
for imitation barrels because they are too quick to turn on. I get one
grab-rail, suicide run before the wave closes out over me. It’s over before I
travel a couple feet. Sadly, it’s my wave of the morning.
Right before I leave, the tide picks up a
little bit more, but the waves are still shitty. The south wind begins to make
ripples over the water. Gawd damn . . . I hate it when the gambles don’t work
out.
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