THE WIND, SAT 10NOV2012 MOR

Loc: Oceanside

Crew: Bri, Rick, John A., Gary C.

Conditions: 3-4 FT, high tide, strong onshore, choppy, sunny, cold.

     Bri and I show up a little late around 0730. It’s a long drive to Oceanside, and since the clocks went back an hour and since the weather’s been colder, it’s been harder to wake up early.

     Still, we are here because it’s Rick’s birthday weekend which he planned at least a month in advance. Despite the conditions, rain, or shine, I knew I’d be here on this very morning—commitments.

     We expect the onshores to be strong, but surprisingly it’s still light. The air is still cool, despite the sun gleaming over the mountains.

     On the sand, we spot Rick right away. It’s harder to make out the two guys next to him. One of them goes for a closeout barrel and gets pinched. When he resurfaces I can tell it’s John. While Bri and I warm up, John goes for another wave. It’s just over three-feet, and the inside stands up. The wave is full of white-wash, but it’s vertical enough to get slotted. John hunkers down in the tube, not completely covered, but he takes it for a long distance, coming out dry.

#

     I’m trying to time the lull for Bri before we paddle out. On the next flatspell, we head out. The inside is still consistent. I make it out and turn around. Bri is still on the inside. I have faith that she can handle it, so I paddle up to Rick.

     John asks if we saw his barrel. It takes a while for me to confirm that it was him on the wave.

     Bri makes it to the lineup. It’s not the day for a funboard or any beginner, but she makes it. This deserves some merit in itself.

     The waves are coming in consistent, but they’re those “windswell waves,” where the shape isn’t clean. Instead, a lot of unrideable waves come in barrages, and somewhere in the mix is a standout which gives a shoulder with enough size to paddle into. It’s a picky morning trying to figure out the right place to sit.

     I catch a left. As I’m going down the line I can see the section’s about to closeout. Since the Tokoro is down for maintenance I have the JS, and I try to top turn off the lip before the ride ends. It’s sluggish. I get stuck and fall, but it’s still fun.

     Gary joins us. He was on the shore taking pics but decided to join in. He’s talking to John. “The wind’s changing,” says Gary.

     He’s right. Texture and ripples start forming on the water. The flag on the shore is blowing strong from the northwest wind. Within minutes, the ocean turns choppy—victory at sea.

#

     Bri’s caught on the inside. I see her, and another bomb is about to closeout on her. I try to keep tabs on her position.

     John paddles up to me. “Gary’s leash broke,” he says.

     I turn around. Rick and Gary are heading in. John catches one in too, but I can’t find Bri. I catch a wave in, turn around, and see that she’s way outside to my south, mixed in with three other surfers. I’m pissed because I have to fight my way through to get to the outside again.

     Bri and I reunite, and she gets worked one more time, unable to make it out again. I catch a last, uneventful wave to end the session.

#

     Back at the campsite, Rick makes Bri and me some coffee. He’s happy just to have us here. John and Gary include Bri in the conversation, showing her pics from their trip to Costa Rica. Bri and I hope to go there some time.

     Before we all part ways, we stop at COCO’s for some breakfast. Despite the shitty conditions, I’m happy to be here to celebrate my friend’s birthday. Sometimes waves aren’t everything.