Loc:
Churches
Time:
0900-1100
Crew: Bri
Conditions:
2-3 FT, offshore, glassy, warm, sunny, uncrowded, consistent.
With the advent of the end of the semester,
school has been really busy—down to the wire. In the midst of the chaos, I’ve
neglected Briana, so I made it a point for us to have a day together.
The swell’s supposed to be big on Thursday,
but San Onofre has the best pre-swell conditions for Wednesday, so we decide to
make a staycation out of it.
Since high-tide is early, we sleep in until
about 0645. Traffic is a little thick, and there’s a sedan in the carpool lane.
The hood is crushed, and it’s spun around facing oncoming traffic. In Irvine,
there’s another accident.
The South Bay was foggy when we left, and
San Onofre is still a little overcast when we show up. Once we reach the beach,
we see a solid, three-foot set roll into the south Churches’ peak. We park.
Small lines are coming in consistently. The wind’s offshore, and there aren’t
that many heads out. It’s been a while since we had a Staycation, and we didn’t
expect the surf to be this good. But right now we can’t wait to change and get
out there.
#
Middles looks like it’s working, but we
decide to sit in between the two peaks that are working, right in the center of
Churches. At first we suffer, watching the guys to our north catch all the
waves. The first twenty minutes only bring us one solid set. We’re getting
impatient.
As the tide lowers, the peaks shift and
start breaking where only me and Briana are stationed. From here, our mini
buffet starts.
These rides are small, save for the
occasional three-foot, down-the-liner. Of course, Zippy is now my Trestles
board, and it’s working. It’s such a good board, shame that it’s water-logged.
The waves are so gentle, slow, and mellow that I have time to watch the section
build after I pop-up. The low rocker and rail-thickness has me making the section
with just a subtle pump. I practice some front-side floaters when the waves
close out.
Bri’s getting a lot of waves too. Her
pop-up is still slow, but she’s catching so many waves now that I urge her to
split them with me. Before, I’d let her drop in on me, but now I make her go
towards my inside so I can get down the line.
The rights have the best shape, and I’m
getting a lot of these too. Easy waves with the Zippy. I pop-up, get down the
line, and hit the lip without purling. For the first time, I’m going top to
bottom with fluidity on this board. I get one two-turn right, falling on the
third attempt.
The marine layer burns off, and it’s
nothing but blue sky everywhere. The wind turns light onshore, but the water’s
still calm.
The other surfers see that me and Briana’s
peak is working, so we get invaded. However, with the tide bottomed-out, the
surf gets a little inconsistent. People start leaving, and after two hours we’re
ready to call the first session too.
#
We head to La Tiendita for some grub,
stoked on life and stoked on surf.
yea, i was wondering where u ate that at... was it good? looks great! and cheesey.
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteI just remembered that I never took you here yet. Of course, Rick turned me on to this spot. We will DINE here when we start going down south again.