Loc: Manhattan
Beach
Time: 0700-0900
Crew: Klaude,
Christina, Randy
Conditions:
2-3 FT, offshore, sunny, freezing, high tide, mooshy, uncrowded.
Klaude calls me when he gets to Manhattan
Beach. I’m in front of the mirror still brushing my teeth. “How’s it look?” I
ask.
“It looks good,” he says, “but no one’s out
. . . it’s hard to tell.”
“Okay, I’ll be there.”
When my brother shows up, we go through the
normal rigormorrig, loading up all our boards from the garage and filling up
our hot water jugs. We score free parking at the top of the hill. The beach
looks empty.
When Randy and I make it to the sand, we
see Klaude’s dad who has his camera mounted on top of a tripod. I introduce him
to my brother, and then we exchange New Year’s greetings. Klaude’s dad points
out Christina and Klaude in the water.
“I’m gonna be over there,” says Randy, as
he motions north towards the same right hander that we all scored on during
Christmas day.
I paddle up to Christina first. She tells
me she just got back from the East Coast and that she’s stoked to finally be
home.
I get a wave right away. It’s a left, but
it’s racey. It closes out before I can get a turn. It’s pretty much how the
morning goes.
The beach isn’t completely empty. Roy is
out. I say hi to him. My brother is surfing by Don K., and there are some other
locals, but it’s still pretty empty.
The current window of surf isn’t good. We
surf it just under two hours when Klaude and Christina start to head towards
the lot.
I head towards my brother. Even though the
wind is offshore, something happens that causes the water to get even glassier.
I catch a right, and I’m caught off guard by the good, shouldery shape that it
has. I set up for it wrong and fall. I paddle back. I feel like the conditions
are getting better.
“I got some good ones over here,” says
Randy. But even though the conditions may be getting better, I’m dirt tired
from staying up too late last night (from blasting fools on PS3). We head in
and meet Shan in the lot. He’s just about to paddle out. We say by to the KK,
his pops, and CC.
Later that day, Shan texts and says that
the surf got really good after we left. Oh well. As I’ve said before: sometimes
earlier isn’t better, but I’m still stoked I got to surf with my friends.
New Year’s
Resolutions:
- I gotta start doing Yoga
- Eat Healthier
- Exercise More
- Get Barreled
- Quit Masturbating
Sounds like it was a fun day.. I try to tell Hubs the same about early is not always better. He always wants to beat the traffic..but I tell him..and he should know this being a boat captain..The Ocean,tide and surf conditions are not on a clock..Well they are technically but you know what I mean.. LOL
ReplyDeleteHappy New Year DD..and I have my resolution on my blog too.
However YOURS is awesome..except don't you have a GF now..that last one should already be non existent!
nice resolutions!! yoga is great, eating healthy is great, exercise more is great, get barreled is a resolution of mine, but quit masturbating... i dunno about that one.
ReplyDeleteSurfing G: Yeah . . . it's one of those things. One you start there is NO TURNING BACK! But speaking of good windows for surf, I have been going on the higher tide lately in the South Bay, but the only problem is that I'm done surfing around 1130. It's a late start to the day =(
ReplyDeleteKK: I hope that five years from now I won't be getting my first barrel, realizing I was an idiot for even conceiving that I could do it present day. Well, we have the rest of the winter to make our dreams come true. I been cooking at home so far this New Year. Starting off semi good. =)