CRUMBTASTIC, FRI 28MAR2014 EVE

Loc: El Porto

Time: 1700-1845

Crew: Bri

Conditions: 1-3 FT, strong onshore, mid tide, consistent.

     Aside from surfing, some of us surfers also try to stay consistent with workout routines outside of the water. This evening I’m faced with two choices. I can either go to the gym or rush it for an evening session.

     Parked again on 45^th Street, for the second time today, the wind is howling onshore. The trees above Chevron sway from the blasts of wind. Down below, the sun is glaring off of the ocean’s surface, but on that surface are lines of peaks coming in. Granted, they are not big lines, but they look rideable. Over the marbly inside whitewash, peels an peak ready to be ripped or at least glided down, and I’m that surfer who’s ready to do so.

     Bri and I paddle out just north of the tower. Surprisingly, there are four other surfers here. In front of 42^nd sits a whole pack of surfers, so despite this onshore wind, others have the feeling that a window of rideable waves might open up.

     The tide is at about mid height. At the break, I see crumbly three footers. The waves are choppy, but there are little end-corners that have potential for distance.

     Paddling out, I already have a feeling of satisfaction. Unlike this morning, I have zero expectations. And even though the surf is a bit blown out, it’s uncrowded and there are rideable waves.

     To get into them, you have to catch them a little late, sort of let the wave crumble over you a bit. The momentum from the spilling lip sends my fish forward. Popping up quickly, I’m faced with a two-foot shoulder. Instead of pumping, I practice my cutbacks since the waves are breaking slowly.

     Bri’s not used to surfing in these choppy conditions, so she struggles a little before getting some long rides herself.

     I glance at the guys on shortboards, watching as the pointed noses of their boards protrude up and out of the faces that they are trying to slide down on. Not to sound snobbish about poor board selection, but really, in these conditions? Gotta have more volume.

     My wave of the day is another left. I’m barely beginning to start doing cutbacks, and this wave that I’m on is holding shape, allowing me to pull off three of them—granted the last one is in the flats. It’s just funny to finally get this maneuver down on a retro twin-fin fish. Who would’ve thought? I can only hope that this skill will transfer onto my shortboards when I start riding them again.

     By 1830, the tide is so high that it gets swampy, turning the surf inconsistent. The stubborn wind maintains its onslaught until Bri and I leave. Regardless, we’re both stoked. I know I am. Even though this morning’s conditions were much cleaner, I had so much more fun on this crumbly session. Sometimes you have to lower your expectations and catch a window of surf when others don’t want to go. You’ll be surprised at the unclaimed stoke waiting for you.