Loc: HB
Pier (north side)
Crew: Bri,
Hideki
Time: 0700-0900
Conditions:
1-3 FT, overcast, inconsistent
I haven’t renewed my state-parking pass
because it costs around two-hundred bucks, so instead of surfing my favorite HB
break, Bri and I meet with the homie Hideki and his HB crew.
Surfline says that the surf will be 2-3
Fair, but driving towards the pier, the ocean is a God damn lake.
When Bri and I reach the water, the lineup
is packed. Hideki waves. We wave back. His crew here is thick, and they all
surf here consistently, all ten of them.
Aside from them, there are the other
regulars, sitting shoulder to shoulder.
It’s so crowded that it throws me off. I
don’t like surfing in crowds. I wait for tensions to flare, but they don’t. If
the lineup were this crowded in the South Bay, there would be an altercation,
but everyone here is cool. It’s actually refreshing, that despite the close
quarters the energy here is good.
As far as surf goes, Bri wins today’s heat,
getting most of the waves. Most of my session is spent sitting and scratching
out, not even getting one turn.
When’s the last good session I had? It was
at PV when that huge storm had hit, but that was so long ago. . .
I’m hitting my limit, feeling uneasy with
the consecutive shitty sessions. It’s time for a power sesh, a really good one
with back-to-back waves. I need a day that’s good enough to whip out my Lost
Mini Driver again and practice some snaps.
When we leave after a fruitless paddle out,
we go to Sancho’s for breakfast burritos with Hideki and his homies.
I feel a little uneasy here in the HB
scene. Big white guys with piercings and tattoos walk their dogs nearby, and
yet, Hideki and his friends are perfectly relaxed. Like my Mandy’s Restaurant
in El Segundo, this place is their local spot—they feel right at home.
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