 |
| I had checked Porto first. Kind of crowded. |
Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Time: 1000-1200
Conditions:
2-3 FT, high, uncrowded
Board: Fish
I was a lazy bastard and slept in, ignoring
the back-and-forth text messages that you get from your friends who are
debating on driving out to surf or not.
By 0930, after beginning my productive day
with a jack-off session, I head out the door with my gear.
With the high tide in the morning, maybe
waiting for the tide to drop isn’t a bad call.
When I get to Manhattan Beach, I get there
just in time see the street cleaner leave the VIP spot, facing the surf, by the
lifeguard tower.
It’s a classic South Bay Friday. The water
is a cerulean blue with only a few heads out. Only those with part time jobs,
the unemployed, and retirees are out here right now.
A few minutes after paddling out, I’m
joined by Shan, who’s one of the guys with a flexible work schedule. He has his
longboard while I stick to my Kainalu Surf Company fish. Yup, that’s right.
That’s what it says on the bottom of my board, Kainalu Fish Company. Funny
thing is, I can’t find jack shit about their boards online—save for one SUP.
The wind was light onshore, but the water
was still pretty clean. It was about mid tide and lowering, and the window of
surf opened up as well. We were both exchanging waves. I got a memorable right
that let me rip two backhand turns on it, but just as soon as the window had
opened, the peaks started closing out. After that it was just frustrating. The
wind picked up, and then the session was over.
So what’s the lesson of this story? Go to
bed early, sleep well, wake up early, eat a small breakfast, and DON’T MISS THE
DAWN PATROL.
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