THE LEFT (PT. I), 12OCT2014

Loc: Trestles

Crew: Bri

Time: morning

Conditions: 2-3 FT, consistent.

     It’s been a while since I’ve caught Trestles with good shape and firing four feet plus. When we arrive, Churches looks like a lake. Once a set arrives, we see that the surf is subpar to the forecast, but it is still rideable.

     With the small conditions, I leave the Motorboat Too in the car and opt for the Zippi. There’s a left that my friends and I have discovered here that, for some reason, usually remains uncrowded. On this very morning, it doesn’t look that great.

     I opt to trunk it with a wetsuit jacket and get surprised with how warm the water still is. Upon paddling out, a set appears. I duckdive the first wave and have the right mind to turn and go on the next, but I wait until I make it all the way outside.

     Even though the surf is smaller than expected, it’s consistently three feet and rippable. Occasionally, there are some waves a little bigger.

     There’s something about the way that the waves break here. It’s a perfect setup to experiment with your equipment and your surfing. Down the line open faces with varying sections along the ride. I practice my layback snaps. They’re more like layback carves, but I have problems riding out of them without hitting the brakes, a similar hindrance I had when learning how to do frontside snaps. So the whole morning, this is my mission. I don’t walk the board much. Aside from my practice, I get a couple of roundhouse cutbacks.

     Today’s goal is to surf our brains out so we can splurge on AYCE sushi afterwards. The whole session, only three guys end up sitting by us before moseying off to other peaks.

     Instead of splurging at Sonics, we pick on the snacks that we had packed from home.

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THE LEFT (PART II), 12OCT2014

Loc: Trestles

Crew: Bri

Time: afternoon

Conditions: 2-3 FT, onshore, inconsistent, sectiony.

     Our spot’s not so pretty for the second go out. Onshore wind has the waves much crumblier and more lined up. Thank goodness I have the fish. Aside from practicing laybacks, I get some long racy sections that allow me to pull off deep swooping pumps. Yet, the water is textured and triangled. The top of the wave at Churches is choppy. After an initial flurry of waves, the lulls get long. Sushi opens at 1700. We surf as hard as we can to make sure we will have an appetite.