THE MOOSH, SAT 11OCT2014

Loc: Brookhurst

Crew: Bri

Time: morning

Conditions: 1-3 FT, crowded, high tide, inconsistent.

     We both needed a day to sleep in, so we took our time getting up and heading out. In an effort to mix things up, we headed to HB to catch some south swell.

     It was a little overcast upon parking, but we could already see whitewash exploding over the sandline, showing the swell’s potential. Cresting over the sand, we see that there are heads out. Normally this place is empty, but since it’s a weekend . . . sure. People. Uncharacteristically, there are funboarders and longboarders. A set breaks outside, super soft from the tide. Mooshy but rideable.

     We head back to the car, and I bust out the 6’0 Zippi. When we paddle out, we duckdive a set. Positioning is hard. Peaks are semi scattered. I move around the lineup, missing the good waves every time or get outpositioned. Afterwards, there’s a long lull. Waves look like they’re going to break, but they roll all the way inside and turn into shorepound. Little by little, all the longboarders move way inside.

     A decent window opens up where there are more waves, but after getting an initial turn, the rest of the wave mooshes out. We try. I have the right board, but it’s not enough.

     It sucks to drive this far to get mediocre surf, but it happens. It’s part of being a surfer, getting skunked like this. And it probably was good earlier. If we hadn’t slept in, we would’ve caught a better window.  

     The good thing is that there’s $3.50 chicken pho before getting off of the freeway. It makes up for the session.