BAD STREAK, MON 17NOV2014

Loc: Brookhurst

Time: 0700-0830

Conditions: 1-3 FT, offshore, sunny, inconsistent.

Board: 5’9 Motorboat Too

     With an appointment set at the Hurley employee store in Costa Mesa, it only makes sense to surf down south. Since I have a state parking pass, I’m stubborn. As much as I like the HB Cliffs, I’d really like to use my two-hundred-plus dollar investment and surf with a minute crowd.

     HB Pier looks sectiony and walled when I pass it. Not that classic HB shape that I love yet barely witness nowadays.

     Pulling up to Brookhurst, the surf signs are bad. Only one truck is parked. A guy who’s done with his surf check is on his way back on the path. I take a gander myself. The high tide’s killing it. It’s hard to catch this place good on a high tide unless the surf is pumping.

     Yet, there are some occasional peaks that sprout up in front of tower 4 near River Jetties. With the tide going down, there is a chance for conditions to improve. Plus, no one’s out. I could score a good solo session.

     Aside from the store appointment, I’m also dropping off my Lost Mini Driver to AB Surfboard Repair in Long Beach, so I have my Motorboat Too today. Seems like a good choice since the surf is small.

     I get two waves right when I paddle out, but since they are swampy, it’s hard to get turns. With the surf inconsistent, I spend a lot of time waiting for those that stand up. Within the hour, a couple other guys paddle out.

     Every once in a while, peaks start to show. The lefts are better. I mistime one and purl. Then I notice, regardless of how small these waves are, the low rocker on this board is so easy to purl on. I really have to be conscious to be on the tail to keep the nose out.

     One left turns rampy on me. If I were an aerialist, this wave would be perfect. Instead, I get speed and get a turn on the open face. I rode that one wrong.

     After running the rest of my errands, I really reflect on how today’s session went. I’ve made some bad decisions in the past on using my boards in the wrong conditions. Turns out that the Motorboat Too isn’t an all-around board. Low rocker, ideal for Trestles and mooshy beach break. I don’t want to get rid of this board, but I need a good session in the right conditions to dial it in again.