FRI 21NOV2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Time: 0700-0930

Conditions: 2-3 FT+, onshore, unorganized, consistent.

Board: 5’9 Motorboat Too

     I had to work yesterday, and I heard it was good, so I’m hoping to catch some waves today, especially since I’m leaving for Japan on Sunday.

     Street parking sucks on Fridays, so I pull into the lot before it’s packed. I notice a green van parked two cars over. It looks like Jimmy B’s. I walk over, and he’s here with Juan, Rick’s brother.

     “Wow. I’m actually gonna witness some WHC action today,” I say.

     They’re surprised to catch me here. We go through the morning greetings and paddle out in front of the brickhouse.

     If yesterday was clean and offshore, today sure isn’t. It’s onshore and consistent. There are scattered peaks everywhere, but they’re coming in a little jumbley and in disarray. But Don K. is out there, selling the surf. Double fisted as usual, his second board sits on the sand.

     Juan and Jimmy paddle out first. I follow suit, and they already catch a couple of waves before I can get one for myself.

     Juan shoots the shit with Don a little. It’s a trip how even though I surf here more consistently than Juan, he’s been surfing all over the South Bay for so many years that he’s still more of a local than I am.

     My first couple waves are pumpers to the inside, but I eventually catch a right and get a backhand snap right in front of Toru as he’s paddling out. Ahhh, feels good to get a little validation. It’s been a while.

     Gary and Juan leave, and after catching that one in front of Toru, I’m on a mission for more. Greedy, I paddle into another right even though I’m too deep. It races away from me. A chick on the outside could have gotten it. I’d like to think that as much as I share, I can get away with a little greed from time to time.

     The conditions seem to be getting better, but I have a lot to take care of before Japan, so I head home to get some stuff ready.

     For dinner, I take Bri out to the Yard House in Marina Del Rey. We sit at the bar right in front of the TV and watch the Lakers game. . . Too bad they fucking lose terribly to the Mavs. It’s a Massacre.