HOKEY POKEY, FRI 21AUG2015

Loc: El Porto, Rosecrans

Time: 0710-0810

Crew: Rick, Gary, Juan, Dave T.

Conditions: 2-3 FT, consistent, onshore, junky, overcast

Board: 5’10 Mini Driver

     I wanted a session just like the day before. I wanted to be a small-barrel hunter, but pulling up to my local spot, I could see that the conditions were strong onshore. Vietnam Vet Mike was out, sitting on his bench on the strand, talking to some other locals. He said that the wind would turn offshore a little later. As I was leaving, I also caught Kurt rushing the surf. I told him how good it was yesterday, but he said he had to work. Hmmm. Should I feel guilty with my unemployed ass?

     So I headed back home on Highland Ave., and then I recalled a text I had gotten from Rick. He was taking another day off, and he was surfing Rosecrans with the other homies, so I thought I’d head over there just to say hi.

     I didn’t even plan on surfing. I caught a glimpse of Juan and Rick’s dual Hurley bands on their thighs, and I knew it was them. Stepping out of my wagon, Gary walked up to me with a brand new wetsuit and a wetsuit jacket. “Here you go,” he said.

     Man. Talk about Quik sponsorship from the homie! How couldn’t I change my mind and paddle out?

     Rosecrans was at least half a foot bigger than 26^th Street was. There were peaks rolling in, but they were just choppy and disorganized. Those salty vets were doing a lot better than I was, but I didn’t care. I would’ve paddle out into a puddle of piss to have this new gear on. Brand new wetsuit, water tight. I’m telling you, I’m so fucking stoked to get free fucking gear, and good gear at that.