Loc: Manhattan Beach
Time: 0700-0900
Crew: Bri
Conditions: 2-3 FT, consistent, overcast,
peaky
Board: 5’10 Mini Driver
The
surf reports were a little conflicted but not by much. Rick had said that there
was supposed to be a slight jump in the NW windswell. I hoped that he was right
and loaded my Mini Driver, which I haven’t ridden since coming back.
Pulling
up to the beach, the surf looked the same as it had all week. I was just hoping
for something to surf, so my expectations were low. Upon reaching the lineup, I
was surprised with how much better the surf was once in the water. The shape
was a little sectiony, but there was some punch to it. Some of the waves were
so punchy that the shoulders offered some hollow slot sections.
I
suck at barrels. I’ve always expressed that I do, but that doesn’t mean I don’t
want to get barreled. In fact, even in the smallest of conditions, if there’s
any hint of a slot, I’m pulling in. So that morning, I could tell from the way
the waves were breaking that I’d be getting the most potential out of the surf
if I just pulled in. Of course I was favoring my forehand. First attempt was
with a rear hand stall, but the lip didn’t curl over like anticipated. Next
waves I was too deep, and they just closed out, both lefts and rights.
The
session really opened up for me when I popped up on this shouldery left. I
stalled once again and got to see how the shoulder was bending as I was going
down the line, but . . . I could also tell that I wasn’t deep enough. The lip
was curling just on top of my shoulders, as some of the white wash suds were splashing
over my neck. Not the full shampoo treatment, just partial. Even with my
mispositioning it felt good being able to read the wave better. Back then, I
would have just instinctually pumped down the line and went for a carve. Those kinds
of turns are easy to get, so long as there’s shape, but to get coverup on a
small day? For someone at my level, it would make for a really stoked day,
maybe even a week!
On
my next attempt, I got a wave that was standing up and peaky with a short
shoulder. For me, these are the best ones to try and pull into (especially if
you’re a beginner). I noticed that even if I’m just a hair too deep, that I
won’t make it out. On this wave, I took off just a little more on the shoulder,
pumped once, stalled, and held my line. Despite how short the shoulder had
looked, the wave stretched out once it hit the sandbar and tried to run away. I
had that tiny little almond slot that I was locking myself into, just catching
that momentary barrel glimpse. I straightened out and punched through the
curtain unscathed. Riding into the flats, I was pretty fucking stoked. No, it wasn’t
a legit barrel, but to gain that confidence in knowing that I am starting to
read waves better was something to smile about.
I
spent the rest of the week mindsurfing, thinking about timing, pulling into
those waves that might just do it. After all this time, maybe there have been
plenty of little barrels on offer, but I just didn’t have the experience to
realize it. Maybe this will be the year with an official in-and-out at my local
break.
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