TUE 18AUG2015

Loc: El Porto, 42nd

Time: 0640-0840

Crew: Rick, Bri

Conditions: 1-2 Occasional 3 FT, inconsistent, overcast

Board: Motorboat Too

     Since Rick took the day off, Bri and I met him at Porto. It was my first session there since coming back from Indo, and on a small day, I was glad to see the lot only half full. Rick said he had hurt his back at work, and I could tell. Usually Rick is the first one out, at least earlier than me, but on that morning he was lagging.

     The wind was light onshore. With a gray overcast sky, the conditions did not look welcoming at all.

     Bri and I paddled out at 42^nd. She was on the 6’0 Mini Driver. It was hard for both of us to get waves. Most of the surfers out were beginners with the addition of some local fanatics who just wanted to get wet.

     The surf didn’t start looking decent until Rick paddled out. He was scratching into some of the smaller waves, but he was starved for turns. Rick later called me into a rare three-foot left. I popped up fast, and the wave began to race away and double up. I kind of wanted to pull in, but it looked like it was going to close, so I just pumped until it doubled up. I didn’t get a chance to get a floater off, but I at least got pretty far.

     Leaving the water, I saw that Rick swapped boards with Bri, letting her use his 6’2 Spyder Hopper. After the session, he told Bri to hold onto it. We spent the rest of the morning at Blue Butterfly, drinking coffee.

     Not much else to add about this session. Even though it was small, I’m glad we paddled out. Consistency is important, and if I want to improve at all, I have to stay true to that.