Mon., Oct. 14th, 2019: Be Your Own Surf Report

Loc: El Porto, 45^th St.

Time: 0800-0900

Conditions: glassy, 2 Ft.

Board: Zippifish

            Don’t always put full stock into Surfline. In fact, I had my eye on both Surfline and Magic Seaweed, and all I could tell is that one of them was lying to me. In any event, Surfline definitely forecasted the surf to be so lackluster that only a fool would even bother doing a surf check. Well, lucky for me, I am a fool.

            I scored free parking where I normally do and trudged my way down to 45^th. I wasn’t expecting much, I hadn’t really seen a wave break before I parked, but I did notice a few heads out. Once I made it down to the lot and saw the other surfers out there, I truly felt like I understood. Yes, I never thought I’d be the surfer who sees ankle slappers and says, “Fuck yes, this is me, this is who I am! I am stoked!” And now, to see how many other surfers still opted to paddle out despite the forecast, I truly realize that I am one of them. I am that guy who just wants to paddle out every day. I see my future self, old and weathered, still doing this routine for as long as I can.

            So I paddled out at 45^th. Nothing to really see here. I didn’t expect much, so I was fine just waiting for some ankle slappers, and then it happened. It was bigger than ankle slappers. We’re talking thigh and hip slappers! But the waves were breaking a little long and fast. I would’ve been better off with the Skipper, but I thought it’d be weaker.

            Even then, the surf still got a little better. With the tide going higher, there were these occasional set waves that broke further out at about waist high. I still pulled in, never making it out, but it was a lot funner than expected; better than both Goldenwest and the local afternoon sesh on Saturday.

            I don’t have any memorable rides, but I just remember feeling good, like I had scored. Despite the forecast, I chanced it and had to see and experience it for myself, and it was well worth it.

Sun., Oct. 13th, 2019: A Huntington Gamble

Loc: Goldenwest

Time: 0645-0745

Conditions: glassy, swampy, 2 Ft., inconsistent

Board: Zippifish

            I listened to the Surf Gawds at Surfline and believed them when they said two-to-three feet plus down south. I knew that the tide would be working against us, so we made the O.G. call to dawn patrol it.

            Getting up that early for a change was kind of nice. Normally, I’m up at 0700, but not that day. Nope. We were on the freeway, driving before the sun was up. Even when we parked, there was barely light breaking the dark sky.

            I hoped for something, anything to surf. HB usually stands up more than waves in the South Bay, and we wouldn’t need much, especially with our big, chunky boards. Even if we only got an hour of decent surf, it would be worth it.

            Se we hit the street parking, slapped on our slippers (lots of glass in these parts), and we walked our asses down to the beach. At first glance, it didn’t seem swampy yet, just…small…slow. And then, lo and behold, a set popped up. It looked almost three feet, and suddenly there were lines. The ocean was alive. I felt great, like there was potential.

            Our first couple of waves were actually decent. For a small HB day it was kind of classic: fast shoulders, fast drop, racy section, tagging the lip before closing out. And then…after a few waves, the tide came up just enough to make everything inconsistent. The few other surfers in the water, too, were just sitting like turds in a toilet; we all were. Fock. Then when the sets did come, the rides got way shorter. Like, fast drop, one pump, bog out into swamp city. Soon the center of HB Cliffs completely shut down. We had to paddle more south to sit on legit Goldenwest, and even then it was too late. 45 minutes into the session and there really wasn’t anything to catch.

            That’s just the way it goes sometimes. We try to make the best call to catch some semblance of a wave. It doesn’t always work out.

Sat., Oct. 12th, 2019: Just to Get Wet

Loc: Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach
Time: 1330-1415

Conditions: onshore, crumbly, low tide, blown out, 1 ft.

Board: Catch Surf Skipper

            I thought that the red flag conditions would go on for a third day straight, providing awesome offshore conditions for at least another day, so it made sense to wait for the tide to drop off in hopes to help the tiny surf. Afterall, we’d have all day to pick and choose the best window, despite the lack of swell. Well…I was wrong.

            Bri already had the day dedicated to her school project. Meanwhile, I was trying to make the best out of a crap surf forecast. I had it figured out. Just wait for the tide, Bri would eventually need a break, and we’d paddle out into some nice, offshore one-to-two footers.

            Unfortunately, by the time we chose our window, the wind was already strong onshore. When we pulled into the El Porto parking lot, it was still packed, but we were witness to crappy onshore conditions. No shape whatsoever. Just these crumbly lines breaking close to shore. Other than that, it looked like an awesome beach day.

            I’ve been consistent lately, changing my mantra from “would rather hit the gym if it’s small” to “every day is worth paddling out.” So, regardless, Bri and I had been stuck in the house all day anyway, so why not at least get wet?

            No wetsuit required. She grabbed her big blue pill AKA Blues Clues and I my Skipper. After being stuck in line for parking, once the lead vehicle parked, we were all finally set free to park at the end, which had been wide open the whole time. Go figure.

            We paddled out right in front. The water was cold, and the wind wasn’t helping, but it was nice just to throw on some shorts. It was a hassle-free session. I was paddling into little waves in thigh deep water. I managed to get a lot of them, trying to see if I could get down the line, but there was literally no shape to do that on. I think best wave I got was just a couple pumps past some closeout sections, but even that was a far cry. However, we still had fun. It was, indeed, good to get wet.

When you think about it, we are lucky. I mean, how many people get the opportunity to be close enough to the beach just to dunk their heads in? Sure, some people live within walking distance, but we don’t even need to be that close. We’re grateful. That’s all I can say, and I continue to be every single day I get to paddle out.

A little kid paddled out next to us in a full suit on an NSP. It was funny because we had the whole place to ourselves, and he paddled out next to us because we must’ve been making it look a little fun just goofing off, and, also, we looked…safe.

Bri and the kid struck a small conversation. I stayed off to the side and just did my thing. Bri told me the kid said something about the surf being too small. He reminded me of my nephew Jaya, probably like nine years old or somewhere around there. Cute kid.

And then Bri and I left. It was good. We both got the break we needed, and even after grabbing some groceries and going straight home again, just to touch nature at least once that day made us feel like we had been somewhere and did something.