I made it a point to ensure that I got to the beach around four o’clock to ensure I had some quality time for the evening session. After yesterday’s evening sesh, I was anticipating something good again. As I pulled in the lot I could see that there was no wind, and the water looked calm. I waited to see what the set waves looked like, and it appeared to be 3 - 4 feet, a little walled, but still with some shoulders. I text Shan, J, Dais, and Rick, and I told them what I saw.
I paddled out. … If I had a waterproof phone I would have called everyone back and told them that it was fucking small, breaking really close to shore, and nothing but close outs. Well, to rid me of any guilt, no one else showed up to surf. The sky was so clear and blue. Normally this would be a good thing, but I had to fight through the glare of the sun, both in the sky and in the water. I probably burned the shit out of my retinas. It was really hard to read the waves because every time you looked out, you were blinded. Everything I caught was closing out right on the shore. I saw one guy get lucky enough to get a good right shoulder and get some good spray before it closed. The Rastafarian was out there again. Of course, he was milking the potential out of the wave, regardless.
It was a disappointing sesh, but not everyday can be awesome. I just hope it gets good again soon.
I almost read every post now - really like your blog. Actually the ocean is so far away from me and according to that it is amazing to read something about your surfers everyday life. Thank you for sharing!
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