DO WE HAVE TO SACRIFICE A VIRGIN? : SUN 1.30.2011 MOR

CREW:  Klaude, Klaude’s dad, Dais, Cheryl, Shan
FLAKES OF THE DAY:  None
RAN INTO:  Whiffle Boy
TIME:  0700 - 0920, 2 hr. & 5 min. (fed meter)
CONDITIONS:  Overcast with rain late in the session.  Shoulder high to head high on close outs.  Ridiculous high tide, lonnnnnnnnnnng ass paddle out, rip current on inside, strong north current, better shape early, and then it started to close out.

    I really wanted to drive to Trestles.  I’ve been having shitty sessions lately, and I am in desperation for clean shoulders.  I had to stay around town, so I told everyone that I’d check out 26th at first light; I wanted the free parking.

    I almost got Jon to paddle out with me, but he couldn’t make it.  I first drove to 26th, and there was no free parking anywhere.  I took a look at the water, and it looked waist high.  The tide was drowning it out really bad, so I texted everyone that I’d be at Porto.  When I got there it was about 0645, there weren’t many people parked, and there were waves. 

    I paddle out by the tanks.  This morning reminded me of yesterday.  My first wave was a right.  I got one turn off the lip, pumped, bottom turned, stalled on the lip, re-entered, and then the wave bogged out on me.  Everything else I got after that was a close out.  On my way to go back in, I saw Dais in the water.  I told him I’d be back.  I got to the sand, and Klaude told me he put some money in the meter for me.  I still added change.  When I got back to Klaude, Dais had already drifted close to the jetty.  I expressed my frustration, and Klaude said, “Get out there and catch some waves.”  He was right.  I got caught on the inside trying to make it out; I don’t know how I paddled through.  Unfortunately, I only got close outs for the second session.  The sky grew dark, and it started raining.  The on shore wind picked up, and the water became choppy, gray, and uninviting.  I saw Shan and Cheryl warming up on the shore, but only Shan was able to punch through the surf.  We both took off on a peak:  Shan went left as I went right.  He said he got a good ride out of it, but mine sucked. 

    I ran into Whiffle Boy in the water, and he was fighting the current just like me.  Shan only stayed for twenty minutes, but I didn’t blame him.  The sets got head high and started walling up.  I got to say bye to everyone in the parking lot.  I’m happy I got that one wave, but I’m still not satisfied.  I’m beginning to rethink how I spend my time surfing.  It may be worth it to drive further for a spot with good waves.

    Klaude and I topped off with some burgers and pancakes from Metro Café.  I guess that made up for the shitty surf.  And then the fucking Lakers lost to Boston, which made the day shitty again. …