IS IT A WAVE?: SAT 1.29.2011 MOR

CREW:  Klaude, Klaude’s dad
FLAKES OF THE DAY:  Shan, Cheryl
RAN INTO:  no one
TIME:  0645 - 0915, 2 hr. & 15 min.
CONDITIONS:  Another sunny and beautiful day.  High tide, long paddle out, sucking inside rip, a couple shoulders mixed in with mostly walled close outs. 

    I had to stay local on Saturday since I had homework to do.  Shan, Cheryl, and Klaude said they’d meet me there.  I didn’t expect much, but I hoped that things would finally get better at my local break.  On Friday afternoon I repaired my DMS board, so I looked forward to paddling out on it again.  I was also thankful that my brother’s Wade Tokoro board didn’t get damaged when I used it.
    I paddled out in between the tanks and the stacks.  When I first got out, there were scattered peaks all along the beach.  It looked really promising.  El Porto and 26th St. can get really good on a high tide.  Yeah, it’s harder to paddle into the mooshy waves, but once you get the slide you can get a long one. 
    For the first half of the sesh I got three waves that had a little shape, but one of them was a nice, long, left.  I got one top turn before stalling on the lip and falling.  I got to pump my board a little, so that was really fun.  When I got out to put change in the meter, I ran into Klaude and his dad with their photo equipment.  Klaude said he didn’t see me at all out there.  After I fed the meter I paddled back out, in hopes to get a good shot for them.  I got one clean right when I got to the line.  I had to grab rail to stay on the high line.  I forgot if I got a couple pumps or not, but I remembered that it was the only legitimate wave that I got the rest of the day.  After that I got close outs and wiped out.  I got caught in a rip current on the inside twice; I paddled for minutes without even moving. 
    When I made it back to Klaude he told me that he didn’t get any pics of me on that one right, but that he saw me get it.  I didn’t mind.  Picture or no picture, I’m there to surf.  At least I got two good waves, but still … it was such a tease to only get a couple of waves.  I’m waiting for that day of good local surf.