CREW: Klaude, Christina
FLAKES OF THE DAY: Shan & Dais
RAN INTO: No one
TIME: 0700 - 0800, 1 hr.
CONDITIONS: If there was wind, then I didn’t feel it. Head high, sloppy, riptide, fast and racy sections, very few corners, mid tide. Things actually got better once the tide rose.
Last night Klaude and Shan asked me where I’d be surfing. I told them that I would be checking out 26th St. at first light, and I’d go to Porto if it was shitty. I also sent out the mass text to everyone. Cheryl was out of town, and Dais said he’d be there around 0830.
I got to 26th at first light. I didn’t like what I saw. There were some waves, but they looked small, and the peaks didn’t seem to be lining up at all. I missed Trestles. I sent out the text that I was changing locations and drove to Porto. I was even more disappointed when I got there; I was disgusted. What a travesty it was to see the shitty Porto surf after surfing Trestles. I cursed Porto. I took a look at the clock. I almost went home, but I convinced myself to at least surf for one hour, just one hour to get wet. I can’t get better at surfing on dry land; I had to paddle out.
It was cold out. I pissed in my wetsuit, and then I paddled out at 45th. There were people in the water, but I’ve seen worse. It didn’t matter that I was in a crowd. The peaks were so unpredictable that anyone had a fair shot at a wave. I paddled to the outside of the surfers and ended up in front of the tanks. A surprise right came through, and I actually got the slide. I was off balance, but I still forced an UGLY carve off of the lip. I reentered and fell on the last top turn. Either way, I was still really surprised that I got a ridable wave in those conditions, so I was happy.
Right after that wave something weird happened. The tanks got really small in the distance, and everyone started paddling towards the shore. I thought that I was getting sucked out a little bit. I paddled, and paddled, then the water got really choppy all around; I was in a fucking rip tide. Three other surfers and I got sucked way out. I was paddling for at least ten minutes trying to get myself out of it. Miraculously, I worked my way back to my original spot.
Waves began to break on the outside, but there was no shape in them. I wiped out on a wave and went back to sit and wait. I got another surprise right. It was smaller than my first wave, but I was able to get two turns on the lip before I kicked out. It was almost 0800, so I caught a close out all the way to shore. Even though the surf was shitty, I was surprised that I got two halfway decent waves out of it.
When I checked my phone, I saw that Klaude and Christina were at 26th. I drove over there to meet up with them, and I joined Klaude on the sand to help be Christina’s cheer leader. It was barely an hour from when I ended my session, and the conditions already got better. With the higher tide the peaks started getting clean. The waves were slightly mooshy, but short boarders were paddling into them without problems. I got a little mad. Watching from the sand I saw guys getting good carves, spray, 360s, etc. I had a lot to do this morning, so I had no choice but to turn around and go home.
Just like that, the conditions changed for the better. I hope tomorrow will be just as good.
No comments:
Post a Comment