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| Of course. Fast racy sections, closing out, no open faces. The El Porto we all love. |
CREW: J
FLAKES OF THE DAY: None
RAN INTO: No one
TIME: 0630 - 0800, 1 hr. & 30 min.
CONDITIONS: Shoulder high, closed out, shitty overall.
Wednesday, being my longest day for classes during the week, I wore myself thin. I was dead tired by midnight, and I had to fight to get out of bed. I was woken up by J’s call. He was at Porto getting suited up. I headed out the door to make my commitment to him.
He was already in the lineup, and I paddled out at 45th to find him. I used my DMS board. I don’t think I’ll be using that Merrick anymore; I really just want to be on a short board consistently from now on. I met up with him in front of 45th. It was a cold morning, but at least the wind wasn’t up. There were a lot of heads in front of the tanks. Every wave that came didn’t have any ridable shape to it. J and I caught some, but we could only go straight, or the section ran away too fast. I didn’t get to pull off any turns. J left, and then I did at 0800. There was no sense to put money in the meter.
That morning’s session summarized the general feel of Porto lately: the surf fuckin’ sucks. Back at my car I saw people suiting up, stoked, and heading out. It shocks me every time. What’s to be excited about?
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