Loc: Bolsa
Chica
Time:0700-0900
Crew: Bri
Conditions:
3-4 FT, foggy, high tide, fast and fat
Something tells me that Manhattan Beach is
going to be crowded today. I also have a feeling that Manhattan Beach is going
to be good, but I don’t want to chance it. I wanna keep my lucky streak going
and surf some uncrowded waves like yesterday, so Bri and I head out to Bolsa.
As much as I’d like to surf Brookhurst,
Bolsa will be good for Bri since the crowd there is mellower, and I’m easily
satisfied with clean shape around three feet.
The fog’s just as thick as the day before
when we arrive at tower 26, but fuck . . . the tide is even higher. I’ve never
surfed Bolsa on a super high tide, and right before me is the result. The swell
is still here, and there is decent size, but the backwash is making it walled
and racy. We’ll have to be directly on the shoulder in order to get distance.
When we paddle out, Bri draws first blood.
The tide is still coming up, so some of the waves have some peaky shape to
them. She catches a classic HB wave, with its critical take off, all the way to
shore. I’m proud of her and her progression, and I want one of these waves for
myself.
The rest of the session for me is a race
against the machine. Every time I pop up, I’m instantly trying to get down the
line. Most of my rides are just pumps behind the closeout sections. However, I
am lucky enough to be all the way at the end of some shoulders, so far at the
end that by the time I pop up, there are makeable sections before me. I get
some single shot, frontside hacks, but they aren’t emphatic. My wave of the day
is a rare left that allows me to connect three carves on. That alone makes the
session and the trip worth it.
When I’m at home I get a voice message from
Klaude. Khang and Nicky are in the background, and they are saying that 26th
Street was so crowded today, like legit annoyingly, hard-to-get-a-wave crowded.
Fuck, so it turns out that today’s gamble paid off as well. Right now I’m on a
roll.
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