Loc: 26th
Street
Crew: Solo
Conditions:
1-3 FT, sunny, glassy, inconsistent, small
Sad to say that I do not remember shit
about this session, save for a couple of things. . .
One, when I showed up on that crisp
morning, I was confronted with the site of the multiple, high school surf teams
that were out in the water. It was chaos: parents, cameras, and kids
everywhere.
It’s coming back to me now. . . I walked
south along the beach, passing the brick house and the tower, searching for a
gap in the crowd. I settled for south of the tower and sat next to a couple of
locals and some longboarders groms. I was frustrated with the competition over
the waves. Mitch was sitting by me, giving me a look that spelled the same
frustration on my face.
I worked my way more towards the tower, and
some kids started to leave for school. Still, many remained. I caught a rare
right that had a good section, but a grom dropped in on me. Eh, it was probably
an accident, so I let that one go and paddled back to the lineup. I split the
peak with another grom and went left. I turned around while I was on the wave
and saw that the grom didn’t take the right and was right behind me. Fuck. I
was glad that I didn’t freak out on that kid that had dropped in on me.
And . . . the rest of the session was
mediocre. So many kids. I remember thinking about that Porto crowd yesterday.
Yes, it was crowded, but was it as crowded as this?
No comments:
Post a Comment