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| Sneaking up on my buddy Calvin. |
Loc: 26th
Time:
0630-0830
Crew: Solo
Conditions:
1-3 FT, overcast, inconsistent, mellow
Walking towards the beach, I see how
crumbly the waves are. It’s overcast and miserable with onshore wind. There is
texture on the water, and I’m wondering if this eight-day surf streak is worth
it.
There aren’t as many groms today, and the
long lulls have surfers sitting in place, waiting for a bone to be thrown. I
sit north of the brick house. Don Kadowaki is here too, Roy’s a little further
north, and so is Calvin.
The two-foot waves crumble and race away
when they roll through. Even the sets. I get some pumps on a racy left, and
that about makes the first half of the morning.
At about 0730, the kids start digging out
early, but something happens with the water. . . The wind goes faint, the tide
fills in a bit more, and the water goes glassy. Even though it’s the smallest
day since Wednesday’s super session, some clean, random sets occasionally roll
in.
Now I’m sharing a peak with Calvin and just
a few other guys. With the light crowd, I get a big handful of waves to myself,
going both left and right. I only connect two turns on one right, but I get a
lot of single-shot waves. They are small and playful with good shape. I
practice a layback snap on one. I pull it off rather weakly, and I fail to
recover my board back under my feet, but it’s still fun to practice.
Eventually, Calvin paddles more south in front of the tower, and I chill with
Jerry (who Calvin just introduced me to this morning) and take some waves in
the same spot.
To think that it looked like garbage this
morning and ended up being a fun, little session. Also, no one fucking snaked
me. I’ll be back here for a while before going to Porto.
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