ON, WED 18SEPT2013 MOR

Loc: 26^th Street

Crew: Klaude, Khang, Dais                                    

Conditions: 2-3 FT+, sunny, glassy, consistent, peaky, crowded

     Surfline definitely unpredicted this one, but the South Bay was going off pretty well, the best that it’s been since I returned from Java.

     From the strand, I already saw the peaks rolling in. Some of them were breaking section on section, but there were some nice, punchy shoulders. Also, the crowd was present. On those good peaks, most of them were overrun with groms. Fuckin’ A. It was a mix of joy and frustration. Yes, the waves were good, but I’d have to battle it out with so many goddam high schoolers.

     I paddled out the same place that I did yesterday. The crowd was a bit thinner here, but the consistency gave everyone a chance. I watched this left roll in as I was paddling out. Its shoulder was standing up, and this big, long face just stood up and started to build down the line. No one was on it. Potential, I thought. It would be a good morning.

     I could have used my smaller boards that have been collecting dust, but I was glad to be on my thicker Mini Driver. I paddled into waves with ease. Like my HB session, I was doing better on my backhand, getting decent snaps. The lefts were a bit racy. I dropped in on a solid four footer. I was so late, but I couldn’t pass it up. I dropped in, grabbing rail on my front side, but the wave didn’t go hollow. It spilled right onto me, and I ate shit. Some kids were watching when I had pulled in, waiting for glory, but it didn’t happen.

     Once the kids left, the waves slowed down, but it was still consistent. I paddled north to meet up with Klaude and Dais. Khang was on the sand warming up. We all commented on how crowded it was, but now we had the place with fewer people.

     Klaude had to go to work, so I spent the rest of the session with the rest of the boys, and (as much as you’ve heard this) we traded off on waves. Fuck, how else can I write this?

     It was just a fun, consistent morning. The waves kept bumping up on the outside, long and semi walled with the tide, but the shoulders at the end provided some punchiness. I got a series of two-turn waves. I connected three solid carves on one left, all the way to shore.

     I didn’t have class until 1730, but I still had to edit a story for turn in, so I had to leave. Khang and Dais said they were going to Soup Plantation. As good as that sounded, I had to pass.

     I went to school that day feeling completely beached. I told my classmate who surfs, Cassady, that I caught it good that morning. He said he was jealous. Fuck. I broke my rule not to surf on a school day, but it’s so hard to pass up right now. If there was a day to break it, that was definitely it.